Perceptia contemporana a culorilor
Una dintre caracteristicile garderobei masculine traditionale este absenta culorilor expresive, precum si limitarea liniilor si croielilor vestimentare. Pe parcursul secolului XX, costumul masculin a suferit putine modificari, majoritatea situandu-se la nivelul - considerat liberal - al accesorizarii: dimensiunea reverului, culoarea batistei de buzunar, a cravatei si a pantofilor, usoara excentricitate a ceasului de mana, etc.
Imaginea emblematica a masculinitatii secolului XX era costumul uni, in nuante inchise, singura abatere de la norma conservatoare fiind culoarea camasii (invariabil alba pana la jumatatea anilor '70 cand, sub influenta stilului contry british casual, apar carourile si liniile in culori complementare) si a cravatei, care a suferit diverse variatii de imprimeu si complementaritate, in functie de evolutia garderobei feminine. O explicatie al acestui conservatorism ar fi stagnarea garderobei masculine in registrul ceremonial, stagnare efectuata la sfarsitul secolului al XIX-lea, cand aristocratia - prin urmare patura sociala care isi putea permite anumite excentricitati vestimentare - se orienteaza catre o viata preponderent de noapte, registru temporar care cerea nuante inchise pentru a compensa culorile bogate ale decorurilor nocturne (restaurantul, teatrul, opera, etc.). Cu atat mai mult, in anii '50, sub influenta cinematografului, barbatii copiaza modelul eroic reprezentat in filme prin barbatul elegant, imbracat tot timpul in costume in doua piese in culori inchise (Cary Grant, Humprey Bogart, Rudolph Valentino, etc.).
Incepand cu anii '80 se remarca o usoara modificare a prezentei culorii in garderoba masculina, manifestata in principal in spatiile marginale si colaterale ale acesteia. Sub influenta aerobicului si a fitness-ului care cunoaste o adevarata explozie sociala la inceputul anilor '80, isi fac aparitia in garderoba masculina culorile electrice, pastelurile si - cel mai surprinzator - o revizitare masiva a rosului. Rosul in garderoba masculina a existat dintotdeauna, de la vestimentatia curenta la cea ceremoniala. Anii '90 transforma aceasta culoare intr-un fashion statment pentru garderoba masculina considerata de avangarda.
Anii '90 definitiveaza stabilirea culorilor considerate extravagante in gardeoba masculina. Din ce in ce mai des, rosul si albastrul se regasesc in perimetrul principal al garderobei (costumul de zi si cel de seara), iar camasa capata nuante pastelate de galben, verde, portocaliu si maro, in timp ce cravata isi dezvolta segmentul de imprimeuri prin aparitia psihedelismului si a imprimeurilor-mesaj.
Considerate mult timp a fi prin excelenta feminine, culorile calde sunt in ziua de astazi indisociabile de garderoba masculina, prin extensie de cea metrosexuala. Rozul isi pierde din mesajul de afirmare a apartenentei la o comunitate bine distincta si devine o culoare obisnuita, reflectand o stare de spirit si un intelect peste media generala. Astfel, dintr-un atribut social (apartenenta la o comunitate), aceasta culoare devine exponentul unui statut intelectual: cel care isi permite aceasta culoare in garderoba este intelectual, cu studii universitare, posedand o cultura vasta. Iar mentalul colectiv a asimilat foarte rapid acest profil, astfel incat se remarca o schimbare de atitudine a colectivitatii in ceea ce priveste acceptarea acestei culori fara sa mai intre in discutie discursul social. In ziua de azi, prezenta culorii roz in garderoba masculina defineste o stare si nu o atitudine, utilizarea garderobiera fiind in consonata cu trend-ul de evolutie al vestimentatiei urbane contemporane.
In ceea ce priveste gama de pasteluri, aparitia lor se remarca incepand cu 1820, cand prin noile procedee de vopsire a textilelor sunt create noi marci variabile de culoare. Sub influenta registrelor jurnaliene, rochiile de zi se deschid prin uniformizarea culorii catre un registru pal de galben, verde si rosu, in timp ce costumul masculin se deschide catre alb si/sau maro (pentru costumul de echitatie si de sport).
Cu timpul, culorile pastelate devin exponentul garderobei feminine prin perceptia colectiva a factorului de sensibilitate a acestei palete. A purta o vestimentatie de culoare deschisa reprezenta la inceputul secolului XX o sensibilitate excesiva, prin excelenta feminina; utilizarea ei in garderoba masculina devenea astfel supusa rigorilor sociale, barbatii care utilizau culori pastelate in garderoba curenta fiind adesea marginalizati pe baza considerentelor conventionale ale vesmantului.
Cu timpul, culorile pastelate devin exponentul garderobei feminine prin perceptia colectiva a factorului de sensibilitate a acestei palete. A purta o vestimentatie de culoare deschisa reprezenta la inceputul secolului XX o sensibilitate excesiva, prin excelenta feminina; utilizarea ei in garderoba masculina devenea astfel supusa rigorilor sociale, barbatii care utilizau culori pastelate in garderoba curenta fiind adesea marginalizati pe baza considerentelor conventionale ale vesmantului.
Perceptia globala contemporana a suferit numeroase modificari in ultimii zece ani. Faptul ca societatile avansate au facilitat transferul de tehnologie si life style catre societatile aflate in perioada de dezvoltare, a condus la schimbarea de mentalitate mult mai rapid decat pana acum. Internetul si mass-media au contribuit la aceasta schimbare de mentalitate, atitudine si referinta fata de valorile considerate traditionale. Astfel incat, trasferul de culori considerate feminine in garderba masculina s-a efectuat usor si fara sa ridice problema acceptarii acestor itemuri, asa cum s-a intamplat la inceputul secolului XX cu acceptarea pantalonului in garderoba feminina sau cum se intampla cu acceptarea fustei in garderoba masculina. Se poate remarca astfel facilitatea cu care mentalitatea colectiva accepta formele colaterale ale garderobei (culoare, textura sau accesoriu) in detrimentul valorizarilor formelor principale (croi, linie, aspect). Acest lucru se poate intelege si daca privim din perspectiva mentalitatilor urbane, conform carora schimbarea in profunzime a formelor vestimentare atrage dupa sine schimbarea raporturilor sociale fundamentale.
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Winning the Game
The moment you figured out you won, you must immediately yell BINGO, and it should be loud enough for the floor walker to hear. The pot money shall be given to the winner once their winning card is confirmed. Well, in winning or once you know you just won, the most important thing is that you shout the winning word BEFORE the time elapses. If the game proceeds and the next number is mentioned and you failed to shout "Bingo", your winning card is disqualified. Therefore, this is the rule you must know.
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